Monday,
5/21
She
told me it would be dirty work. I couldn’t pretend I didn’t remember that, as
though I believed I would just bake brownies every day. In my interview we
talked about how much gleaning I would do and what exactly “gleaning” entailed:
sorting through boxes of past-their-prime fruits and vegetables to see what we
could use in our meals. I knew what I was getting myself into.
Somehow,
though, this recognition does not make the smell of 300 pounds of half-rotten
vegetables any easier to tolerate. My car smells like tomato wine, or it would
if tomato wine existed. I roll my windows down, but it doesn’t help much; the
90-degree heat holds everything about the rot in my nose, my senses, my consciousness.
What am I doing? I
ask myself on the drive back to the office. I know what led me here, at least; I
wanted this job because I love food, and I hoped I could translate that love
into meaningful work. I am quickly realizing that I actually just love fresh
food, the kind I buy from Whole Foods or a farmer’s market, or at this point,
any place where the food doesn’t have visible mold on it. I am also realizing
that while I love making food for my friends—hosting elaborate dinner parties
for a dozen people or so—planning and executing four meals a week for 75-100
people does not hold quite the same charm.
I
pull up to the back door of our building. Reflection time is over. My coworkers
come out to help me carry everything in from my car, and I sort, weigh, and
record my haul. 32 pounds of peaches, 56 of corn, 47 of tomatoes, endless
squash and zucchini. About half of everything I picked up is unusable, so into the
compost bin it goes.
Ah,
the compost bin. From far away it looks almost beautiful, a rainbow of refuse.
The closer I get, though, the more I see the signs of spoilage: mold, flies, the occasional small animal casing
the joint. I go out there two, three times every day, but I try my best to make
those visits as quick as possible. Sometimes I hold my breath for the 15
seconds it takes to dump a boxful into the muck.
Of
course, Mondays are the hardest. As soon as I’ve sorted and weighed what I’ve
gleaned, recorded it, and composted the bad stuff, volunteers show up to help
me process it all. The same group comes every Monday, 10 or 15 young adults
with developmental disabilities. Working with them is not my strong point, to
say the least. I’m terrible at it. I’m impatient, nervous, unsure of what they
can and cannot do and how I should talk to them. I know they know I’m
uncomfortable, but I can’t quite figure out how to hide it, or better yet, get
over it.
Jack,
a thin blonde guy with a crooked nose, has a habit of asking, “Why?” no matter
what I tell him to do.
“Jack,
take these tomatoes out of this bin and put them on this pallet.” “Why?”
“Because they need to go on a pallet.”
“Jack,
take the husks off of the corn, then put the husks in here and the corn in
here.” “Why?” “Because people can eat the corn but they can’t eat the husks.”
“Jack,
sort through these squash and put the hard ones here and the squishy ones
there.” “Why?” “Because that’s what I
need you to do right now!”
“So
sorry,” Jack says, in a swift, instinctive way, a way that makes it clear he’s
been apologizing his whole life.
What am I doing?
Almost
as soon as Jack and his friends get here, though, they are gone. I walk into
our kitchen and take my lunch out of the refrigerator, my lunch. It’s healthy (enough), fresh, and expensive: a beet and
arugula salad with sheep’s milk feta, roasted pecans, and a white wine
vinaigrette I made myself. Fresh crusty bread, toasted and slathered with butter.
As much watermelon as I can fit into an old yogurt container. I eat like this every damn day. And I love it. Do I want
everyone to be able to eat like this, to choose what they want, buy it, cook
it, and eat it? Yes. Would I compromise my comfort to make that happen? It
would appear not.
But
I try not to think about this right now. I try to put everything out of my mind
except my lunch; I lean against the counter and relax into my meal. This, I think—this is what I love about food.
Anne,
my supervisor, comes in just as I swallow my last bite. We go over all of the
salvageable produce I gleaned, divide it among industrial-sized blue bins, and
store it wherever we can find fridge space. We talk about what we’ll do with
all this stuff, all these quickly-decomposing-but-still-usable fruits and
vegetables. We talk about potential recipes for the week, we fold aprons and
hand towels, and we pull out meat from the freezer. I tell her about the kale
salad I made for dinner last night, and she tells me about the lime, basil, and
gin cocktail she mixed up on Saturday. When I talk to her, I love this job. In
fact, when I talk to anyone I work with I love it. I’m not here for the rotten
squash; I’m here hoping I can soak up some of their goodness. But I feel like a
fraud.
Friday, 8/10
I
love working on Fridays. Normally I don’t come in; Anne usually works alone to
plan next week’s meals. But this week—my last week—she’s on vacation, so I’m
filling in for her. I chat with the Friday morning cooks, check out the
contents of the freezer and the pantry, and piece together menus based on what
we have in stock. It’s like a word problem:
you have 33 pounds of chicken, 27 pounds of ground beef, 15 pounds of
rice, and 3 bins of vegetables. How many people can you feed?
I
figure it out, come up with recipes, and email Anne:
Hello! I've outlined some possible
menus for next week. I'm not sure what days we have
dessert donated, but since we have so many peaches and bananas in the freezer I
thought it would make sense to use them. As far as meat goes, we have a lot of
chicken and smaller amounts of ground meat, beef, and bacon. I took out the
chicken and ground meat so that should be ready to go. We also still have a lot
of produce in the fridge, mostly peppers and squash/zucchini (some of which is
already chopped), plus tomatoes and potatoes. Here’s what I came up with:
Tuesday:
Parmesan breaded chicken tenders
Roasted squash
Mashed potatoes
Wednesday:
Chili mac with cheddar, tomatoes, and
hot peppers
Roasted zucchini
Thursday:
Black beans and rice with peppers
(hot/sweet) and onions (and bacon?)
Squash and zucchini with cumin and
chili powder
Sliced tomatoes
Friday:
Beef stew with lots of summer veggies,
over rice
Cucumber salad
Possible desserts:
Peach cobbler
Banana cake with chocolate/cinnamon
chips
See
you soon (very soon, I hope)!
xoxo
Sarah
I
hit send. Why does this list of simple meals feel so important to me? It’s not
exactly a stroke of culinary genius to suggest that we use beef to make beef
stew. My pride in this work makes me feel silly for a moment, like I’m six years
old again and proud of myself for tying my shoes. Everyone else learned that
two years ago? Oh.
Anyway,
I don’t dwell on it because it’s time for me to go. Or almost anyway—one more
trip to the compost bin. A local farmer dropped an unexpected donation at our
doorstep last night, and some of the vegetables will not last until Tuesday. The
recent heat wave hasn’t made the task of composting any more appealing, but perhaps
because it’s my last week, my last day, I almost feel a premature nostalgia for
this act. I even start to think that maybe gleaning wasn’t so bad. I know I’m
idealizing, but I want to hold onto everything about this summer as long as I
can.
I
stand outside for a moment, sweating, staring at the compost. Beauty and color
and ripeness—it is all slowly dying, decaying into dirt. And for what? To become
the ground we walk on, the soil we grow in. I
couldn’t do it, I think. These
inanimate objects have me beat. But then I realize that like it or not, I
am doing it. We’re all doing it—slipping away, day by day, piece by piece,
often quite imperceptibly. But does our slow
death birth any new life? Do we make our death worth it? I start to think I
could learn something from this compost.
Or maybe it’s just compost.
Then again, maybe so are we.